原文:http://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzU1MDQwNTgzMg==&mid=2247491069&idx=1&sn=a2d7f6fd4e1b0505777bd8119e621e81&chksm=fba04e5accd7c74ce995cb595ce5d8c59f5fe9e4f6c31b29587c5a03c1dce584bc114986a60c#rd
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导读
英国美食作家扶霞·邓洛普的美食情结
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听力|精读|翻译|词组
CHINA HIDDEN TREASURES
隐匿的中国宝藏
英文部分选自经济学人《1843》
CHINA HIDDEN TREASURES
隐匿的中国宝藏
The food of Yunnan is famous in China but almost unknown abroad. Fuchsia Dunlop goes in search of it
云南美食在中国享有盛名,却在海外却鲜为人知。扶霞·邓洛普开启了寻味云南美食之旅。
注:
扶霞·邓洛普(Fuchsia Dunlop),女,英国人,中文名叫邓扶霞,曾四次获得烹饪餐饮界“奥斯卡”之称的詹姆斯·比尔德奖(James Beard Award)烹饪写作大奖。她把自己对中国美食的热爱写成了书。2008年,《鱼翅与花椒》的英文版出版。
In the shade of the palm and banyan trees that flank the courtyard of her restaurant, Aka Village, Su Ying is preparing to give me a cooking lesson. She is dressed in a black cotton suit with embroidered panels, and a hat covered in silver ornaments and pompoms that quiver as she moves, the traditional garb of the Hani minority in south-west China. Her ingredients are neatly laid out, including fresh herbs, ground spices, bright red chillies, garlic and ginger. But she has no pots and pans – instead she is going to cook the food in banana leaves and tubes of fresh bamboo on a small fire that blazes under an iron tripod in a corner of the yard. Su Ying takes up her cleaver and starts to chop the herbs.
苏英开了间阿卡乡村餐厅,庭院两侧种着棕榈树和榕树,她就在树荫底下准备给我上一堂烹饪课,苏英身着中国西南部哈尼族传统服饰——镶有刺绣条纹的黑色棉裙,布满银饰并坠着随步摇晃的绣球的帽子。她将食材,新鲜调味香草、研磨好的香料、鲜红辣椒、大蒜和生姜等,一一摆放整齐。不过苏英并不使用锅碗瓢盆,她打算在院角处的铁三角架下支起小火,用芭蕉叶和新鲜竹筒包裹住食物烹煮。苏英拿起菜刀开始切调味香草。
Nearly a decade has passed since I last visited the tropical prefecture of Xishuangbanna in the far south of Yunnan province in south-west China, close to the border with Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam. Here in Jinghong, the main city, we’re some 1,500 miles from Beijing, as distant as Moscow is from London. Now, as then, I’m struck by how different Yunnan is to other parts of China, and how distinct the food is from the country’s far better-known cuisines soy sauce and vinegar, both Chinese staples, are absent from Su Ying’s kitchen. Her herbs – sawtooth, lemongrass, Vietnamese coriander and mint – seem more south-east Asian than Chinese; some of the spices are uniquely local, such as false camphor tree fruits and a wild variety of Sichuan pepper. As Su Ying works, she chats away to her colleagues in the staccato tones of the Hani language, which is incomprehensible to me, a Mandarin speaker.
距我上次来西双版纳已经过去了近十年。西双版纳傣族自治州属于热带气候,地处中国西南部云南省最南端,与老挝、缅甸和越南接壤。我们所在的景洪市是西双版纳傣族自治州首府,距北京约1500英里,相当于伦敦和莫斯科之间的距离。这次来,我再次被云南和云南菜的独特所震撼。酱油和醋是为人熟知的中国菜系的主要调料,但云南菜和这些知名菜系非常不同,在苏英的厨房里看不见两种佐料。她的调味香菜——锯齿草、柠檬草、越南香菜和薄荷——更具有东南亚风味;一些香料是当地特产,如云南樟果和野生四川辣椒。苏英边干活边用哈尼语和同伴聊天。哈尼语调子短促,不连贯对于会说普通话的我,根本听不懂她们在说什么。
Su Ying tosses a mixture of wild vegetables with lemongrass and chilli and parcels them up in broad banana leaves. She seasons sliced beef with chilli, herbs and spices and tumbles it into a tube of green, freshly cut bamboo, stoppering the tube with a scrumpled banana leaf and propping it up in the embers of the fire. Another tube is filled with a more exotic delicacy: live bamboo worms, wriggling, ivory-coloured grubs which she mixes with herbs and spices, tubes up and thrusts into the fire.
苏英把各种野菜混合在一起,将之与柠檬草和辣椒一同搅拌,然后用宽芭蕉叶把它们包好;用辣椒、各种香草和香料给切片牛肉调味,摇摇晃晃倒入绿色刚砍下来的竹筒中,再把芭蕉叶揉成一团塞住竹筒口,然后将竹筒放在炭火里。另一个竹筒中是更奇特的美味:她将象牙色的还在蠕动的活竹虫,同草药和香料混合在一起,塞入竹管,插入火中煨烤。
Later we gather around a table, laid with a cloth of banana leaves and topped with bamboo bowls, cups and chopsticks, to try her food. The banana-leaf parcels of meat and vegetables are sliced open to emit zesty, herbal aromas. Eggshells filled with minced pork and cooked in the ashes of the fire are served on a bamboo tray; a leaf-lined platter of raw vegetables arrives with a fruity dip (the local version of Thai nahm prik). The herb-spiked worms are juicily delicious. Even the rice has been cooked in bamboo tubes in the fire. “This is the kind of food I used to eat when I was small, growing up in the mountains,” Su Ying tells me.
稍后,我们围桌而坐品尝苏英烹制的食物。桌上铺着芭蕉叶拼成的桌布,摆放着竹碗、竹杯和竹筷。包裹着牛肉和蔬菜的芭蕉叶被切开,散发出浓郁的香草香味。各色美味被陆续端上桌:在灰烬中煨熟的蛋壳里塞满的猪肉糜,被盛放在竹盘里;各色生菜铺在衬有芭蕉叶的浅盘中,佐以水果味酱汁(云南版的泰国 nahm prik)。渗入香草的竹虫鲜美多汁。甚至米饭都是装在竹筒里在火里煮熟的。苏英告诉我,“我小时候在山里吃的就是这些食物”。
注:Nahm prik(如图所示)
Even for many Chinese, Yunnan seems exotic. Historically, it was a wayward province, ruled by local kings and chieftains, until the 13th century when Kublai Khan’s troops brought it into the vast Mongol empire. Yunnan is home not only to Han Chinese, who make up over 90% of China’s population, but 24 ethnic minorities, including Su Ying’s Hani people and the Dai, close cousins of the Tai of Laos and Thailand.
即使对许多中国人而言,云南也颇具异国情调。回顾历史,在13世纪忽必烈率军将之纳入广袤的蒙古帝国版图之前,云南一直由当地国王和酋长统治,偏安一隅。居住在云南的不仅有汉族6汉族是中国的主体民族,占总人口的90%以上),而且还有24个少数民族,包括苏英所在哈尼族和与老挝、泰国是近亲的傣族。
Yunnan encompasses a startling array of terrains and climates. In the north-west of the province you’ll find the thin air, snowy mountains and grazing yaks of the Tibetan plateau. Drive south from the capital Kunming, a recognisably Chinese city with a spring-like climate, and the landscape shifts from temperate to tropical, lush with banana, rubber and coffee trees. The green vegetation is splashed with electrifying colour.
云南省地貌千差万别,气候千变万化,令人惊异。云南省西北部空气稀薄,可以看见耸立的雪山和吃草的西藏高原牦牛。从人们熟知的省会春城昆明驱车向南,沿途的风景从温带转向热带,郁郁葱葱的香蕉树、橡胶树和咖啡树相继映入眼帘。茂盛的植被浓绿重彩,令人心情振奋。
The province is a global hotspot of biodiversity and the range of local ingredients is staggering. Most famously, the summer mushroom season yields some varieties of 300 edible fungi, including delicacies such as savoury matsutake and dark, crinkly ganba, a fungus with a striking umami flavour. Banana and pomegranate blossoms are just two of myriad edible flowers; there are countless wild plants and a cornucopia of bugs and grubs. One of the region’s renowned products is Yunnan ham, produced during the cool, arid winters in the north-east.
云南省的生物多样性世界闻名,而当地食材种类之多亦令人惊叹。夏日蘑菇季节出产的可食用菌品种高达300种,尤为盛名,很多都是美味佳肴,例如鲜美的松茸,鲜香扑鼻的布满皱褶的黑色干巴菌。香蕉花、石榴花只是无数可食用花中的两种;还有数不尽的野生植物和道不完的昆虫和幼虫。该地区广为人知的美食之一——云南火腿,就是在云南东北部凉爽、干燥的冬季里制作的。
注:
云南10大野生菌http://www.haoshanpu.com/news/7509
Yunnan’s remoteness has spared it much of the overdevelopment and pollution that have blighted other parts of China. So in recent years it has become a magnet for Chinese idealists in search of the good life, chefs seeking out wild and artisanal ingredients and hordes of domestic tourists. Many people have been exposed to its culinary delights for the first time and Yunnan restaurants have opened across the country. Yet the cuisine is almost unknown outside China apart from a handful of restaurants in cosmopolitan cities such as Los Angeles and Melbourne. “Cooking South of the Clouds” by Georgia Freedman, an American journalist, is one of the first cookbooks to trumpet the region’s gastronomic traditions.
云南因地势偏远而没有像中国其他城市那样被过度开发和污染。所以近年来,云南成为极具吸引力的世外桃源,中国的理想主义者来此寻找美好生活,厨师慕名前来探寻野生天然食材,国内游客也络绎不绝。许多人第一次品尝当地美食,而云南餐馆也在中国遍地开花。然而,除了在洛杉矶、墨尔本这类国际大都会中有几家云南餐厅之外,云南菜在国外几乎无人知晓。美国记者佐治亚·弗里德曼(Georgia Freedman)撰写的《云之南烹饪》是最早宣传该地区美食传统的烹饪书之一。
Given the distinctiveness of Yunnan food, the cuisine is unlikely to find its way out of China unless Yunnanese chefs move abroad. Immigration regulations in most countries make that unlikely. An even greater obstacle to the popularisation of Yunnan food abroad is its sheer diversity.
鉴于云南美食的独特性,除非云南大厨移居国外,否则云南菜很难走向世界。但大多数国家的移民管制使这很难实现。另一个在云南菜海外推广中遇到的更大阻碍,是其鲜明的多样性。
No one restaurant or chef could represent a region that’s such a patchwork of terroirs, languages and cultures. There is no single overarching Yunnan cuisine, but a selection of overlapping ones. And, more than anywhere else in China, a large proportion of the ingredients used in Yunnan are stubbornly local and unavailable elsewhere.
在一个地域分散、语言和文化差异大的地区,没有一家餐馆或一位厨师能够代表整个地区的菜系特色。在云南,没有哪一道菜能艳压群芳,而是各种菜品百花齐放。此外,与中国其他地方相比,云南菜中的大量配料都是地地道道的云南特产,在其他地方无处可寻。
Xishuangbanna alone is full of gastronomic revelations. One sunny winter morning, Ye Zengquan, a master chef and president of the local catering association, took me on a tour of Jinghong’s main food market. Dai women had laid their produce out on banana leaves: pork and beef cured in salt and chilli, white and purple rice cakes, home-made pickles and gnarled medicinal roots. Ye introduced me to dozens of ingredients I’d never encountered before. “Yunnan”, he told me, “is a gene bank of plants, animals and medicines.”
仅西双版纳的美食就令我大开眼界。一个明媚的冬日早晨,当地餐饮协会会长叶增权大厨带我参观了景洪最大的主食市场。傣族妇女将农产品铺在香蕉叶上:用盐和辣椒腌制的猪肉和牛肉,白色和紫色米糕,自制泡菜和多节草药根。叶增权向我介绍了许多我从未见过的食材。他说:“云南是动物、植物与药材的基因库。”
On another day we drove out of town along the graceful sweep of the Lancang river – known as the Mekong farther south – to Manzha village, where Dai people live in wooden houses. We stopped at a restaurant where starfruit and papayas hung heavy on trees. Perched on bamboo chairs we enjoyed Dai specialities including barbecued chicken, belly pork and herb-stuffed fish, all aromatic and charred from the grill. Later, for a taste of Xishuangbanna’s famous exotica, a tattooed hipster chef in Jinghong produced a banquet of bamboo worms, ant eggs, shiny beetles and – most sensationally – the brush grub, a long, pale worm that tastes exactly like sweetcorn and has to be extracted from a grassy stalk at the table.
另一天,我们沿着优美的澜沧江岸驾车出城,抵达曼扎村。澜沧江南端就是湄公河,而曼扎村里的傣族人就住在木头房子里。我们在一家餐馆停下脚步,门外的杨桃树和木瓜树挂满了果实。栖在竹椅上,我们尽情享用傣家特色美食——烤鸡、五花肉和填满香草的鱼,每一道菜都在架子上烤得外焦里嫩,香气扑鼻。之后,我们品尝了一番西双版纳的珍奇。一位来自景洪、有纹身的时髦厨师用各种虫和卵做成了一桌宴席,有竹虫、蚂蚁卵和亮闪闪的甲虫,最吓人的是一种灌木幼虫,需要把它从草茎里掏出来,味道像极了甜玉米。
Yet the food of Xishuangbanna is just one of Yunnan’s many gastronomic faces. On my trips to the province over the years I have dined on Tibetan staples such as toasted barley flour and yak butter tea in a town now known as Shangri-la, high on the Tibetan plateau. In the north-east I gorged on spicy hotpots, and even farther north I visited the centre of ham production in Xuanwei, where I supped on delicate soups and stews. Here in Xishuangbanna, I was tasting the sour and hot flavours and fresh herbs of the tropical south.
然而,西双版纳美食仅是云南菜的众多类别之一。在我这些年多次往返云南的旅途上,在青藏高原高处的香格里拉,我品尝过藏人的青稞面和牦牛奶;在东北部,狼吞虎咽地吃过麻辣火锅;甚至到过更北的位于宣威的火腿生产中心,在那里品尝精美可口的炖菜和汤。 而在西双版纳,我尝到的是南部热带所特有的酸、辣和新鲜香草芬芳。
The cuisine is like a fractal: the closer you look the more it expands into an infinity of possibilities. In an age of globalisation, when privileged urbanites can sample delicacies from practically anywhere without leaving home, Yunnan is a reminder that for a real taste of local culinary culture, sometimes you just have to go to the source.•
云南菜像分形图案,你越凑近看,它越展现无限可能。在全球化的时代,养尊处优的城里人足不出户就几乎可以品尝所有的各地美食。而云南的情况则提醒我们,要真实感受当地饮食文化,我们有时还得必须亲临源头探寻。
翻译组:
Yvonne,努力中的口译新人
Kemay,决心练好笔译的未来口译员
Lixia,女,爱爬山的健身小白,美食狂人
校对组:
Alex,不务正业的理工男
Lee,爱骑行的妇女之友+Timberland粉
Rachel Zhang,学理工科,爱跳芭蕾,热爱文艺的非典型翻译
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观点|评论|思考
本次感想
Mona,悦读悦译,以译会友
谈起曾经到过的地方,你会如何去回忆?印象最深的人和物?发生的小插曲,收获的小确幸?或许,更让人滔滔不绝的是那里的美食,让你想故地重游的美食。味觉给我们的记忆永远最深刻,最长久。问身处异国他乡的成都人,最想念什么?火锅,火锅,火锅。
云南呢?云南有太多的美食,而且伴随地域差异,气候、民族及文化的不同,各种特色不一而足,难怪作者也选不出云南的代表菜来。这里有四季如春的昆明,有雪山皑皑的高原,有各种可做食材的鲜花、菌菇、药草等等。除了食材本身,那些烹饪方式也独树一帜,一疏一菜之间,彩云之南的异域风情绝对令人难忘。
叹息云南美食在海外鲜有人知的同时,作者提议云南大厨移民海外去传播云南美食,实不敢苟同。全球化的当代,物流网日益发达,足不出户即可享受到各地美食,但是,由文化承载的美食,别具异域风味,绝对无法随意复制,只能亲临才可体验。即便6G、7G推出,能隔着屏幕闻到菜肴的香味,也无法替代所见即所得的味觉和感官盛宴,所谓饱了眼福,没饱口福。
我们在品尝美食的时候,只是为了一饱口福吗?恐怕更多的是一种生活体验吧,毕竟,衣食住行,食是组成生活的重要一环。而如今,快节奏的生活让我们轻而易举地压制了这种生活需求。“996”体制下,最先牺牲的是什么?食。快餐盛行,大家饮食不规律,而且慢慢习以为常。正因如此,李子柒的视频才那么火,透过她从容地准备天然食材,原始的耕种、收获、烹饪,大家体验到了都市快生活里已经遥不可及的宁静,与大自然的亲近,慢节奏生活的平和,以及简简单单的岁月静好。
所有事物都具有两面性,社会发展概莫能外。科技与社会发展越来越快,人的活动轨迹越来越广泛,理论上,你可以到访地球的任何一个角落,探寻刷新个人识见的体验。然而,令人惋惜的是,商业化已经让许多古朴的东西被迫更迭,快速化作历史,很多有趣的文化、美食、工艺等都在慢慢消失。无法想象若干年之后,那些云南菜肴都不再用香蕉叶或竹筒在小火上炙烤,而是全换成电磁炉、电饭锅。我们无法阻止社会进步和科技发展,也无法阻止文化的消亡,唯一能做的,就是趁还来得及,多体验一些。趁年轻,保持开放的心态,接受好奇心的引导,行万里路,且行且喜乐。
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